Fitting Guide - Solid Flooring
Important checks before installation:
Wood is a living substance that reacts to changes in relative humidity. Wood
gains and loses moisture before and after installation, as surrounding conditions
fluctuate. Indeed, wood expands in the summer when humidity level is high and
contracts in the winter when the humidity level is much lower. To minimize the
expansion or contraction of your hardwood floor, it is recommended that the
building should be well ventilated and the relative humidity level maintained
to at least 45% all year long. Before you begin, plastering and cement work
must be completely dry. The wood must be left to acclimatize at house temperature
for a period of at least 48 hours we recomend 7 days at the ideal relative humidity
level, which is 45%. For new constructions or renovations, the house should
be occupied and heating running for at least 2 weeks. Be sure to maintain a
level temperature and humidity for at least five days prior to installation.
The house must be heated at 22 degrees.
Testing the sub-floor for excess moisture:
If sub-floor is concrete:
Solid hardwood floors should not be installed over a concrete sub-floor, you
warranty will be void if you install directly over concrete sub-floor. For a
concrete sub-floor please use Teal Flooring?s engineered hardwood flooring.
If sub-floor is plywood:
The level of moisture in the plywood sub-floor must be tested using a hygrometer.
The moisture content reading must not exceed 12%. If a higher percentage reading
is measured, the fitting of the timber floor should not go ahead. If the humidity
level is too high, turn up the heat and open the windows. Wait until the correct
moisture level has been achieved before installing.
Installation:
Tools required:
* Hardwood floor nailer (with rubber mallet)
* Electric drill and bits
* Tenon-saw, circular saw or handsaw
* Claw hammer and nail punch
* Measuring tape
* Chalk line
Before you begin, it is important to verify that the nailer is in good working
condition to prevent damage to the planks.
General preparation:
* Remove the base molding boards.
* Using a handsaw, cut the bottom of the door frames ?" (19mm) in order
to slide a hardwood plank beneath the door.
Preparation for installing solid flooring:
Having tested your sub-floor for moisture as directed, the next step is to
put down a vapor barrier. For this you must use 1000 gauge polythene. Ensure
your sub-floor is clean and free from grit to avoid puncturing the polythene.
Unroll the polythene over the sub-floor allowing an overlap at the joints of
at least 100mm. Make sure you allow enough polythene to extend under the molding
boards and that the polythene lies flat to avoid any bunching. All joints must
be sealed using waterproof tape.
If you are installing your solid floor over a concrete sub-floor, you now put
down your fixing base. For this you can use full sheets of 19mm plywood or pre-treated
35x50mm timber batons. Both sheets and batons must be fixed to the sub-floor
using hammer in fixings. Batons should be fixed no more than 200 - 250mm apart
from each other.
Step by Step Installation:
* Begin in the corner where the two longest straight walls come together and
preferably lay your flooring in the direction of the incoming light. If you
are fitting your floor over an existing plywood sub-floor, you should lay your
flooring in the opposite direction to the existing floor
* Using the chalk line, draw a line 12mm larger than the width of the timber
board out from your starting wall.
* Select your floor boards select your boards with care, making sure to reject
any flawed pieces.
* Expansion Gaps: You must leave expansion gaps of 1mm (size of a small washer)
every 4 - 5 rows to allow for timber movement and to prevent cupping. Also,
an expansion gap of 12mm should be left around the perimeter of the floor by
the walls and also around radiator pipes.
* Lay the groove edge of your first board on the guideline (groove edge facing
wall) and fix through the face of the board to the sub-floor. Continue in this
manner until the first row is complete.
* Start the second row with a board that is shorter or longer than the board
used in the first row to avoid aligning the joints. Set the board in place and
secure with secret nails through the tongue using your hardwood floor nailer.
Nail every 8 - 10" and never nail closer than 3" towards the end of
a board.
* Install the subsequent rows in the same manner, continuing to alternate with
boards of different lengths to avoid aligning joints.
* The last three rows should be installed in the same manner as the first row.
Finally slot row zero behind the first row and face nail in the same fashion.
* Nail holes can be filled using a matching wax or wood filler.
* Replace the moldings.
* Enjoy a Lifetime of Beauty that your new hardwood floor will bring you.
Fitting Guide ? Engineered Flooring
Important checks before installation:
Wood is a living substance that reacts to changes in relative humidity. Wood
gains and loses moisture before and after installation, as surrounding conditions
fluctuate. Indeed, wood expands in the summer when humidity level is high and
contracts in the winter when the humidity level is much lower. To minimize the
expansion or contraction of your hardwood floor, it is recommended that the
building should be well ventilated and the relative humidity level maintained
to at least 45% all year long. Before you begin, plastering and cement work
must be completely dry. For new constructions or renovations, the house should
be occupied and heating running for at least 2 weeks. Be sure to maintain a
level temperature and humidity for at least five days prior to install. Brazilian
Cherry or Jatoba must not be installed over radiant heat due to its specific
physical properties. The house should be heated to 22 degrees.
Testing the sub-floor for excess moisture:
If sub-floor is concrete:
Concrete sub floor should be a minimum of 30 days old to ensure it is totally
cured and the moisture rate must not exceed 3 lbs / 1000 ft2 / 24 hrs. If moisture
reading is too high use a complete moisture proofing system (sealer and adhesive),
suggested manufactures are Bostik, Franklin, or Sika.
If sub-floor is plywood:
The level of moisture in the plywood sub-floor must be tested using a hygrometer.
The moisture content reading must not exceed 12%. If a higher percentage reading
is measured, the fitting of the floor should not go ahead. If the humidity level
is too high, turn up the heat and open the windows. Wait until the correct moisture
level has been achieved before installing.
Preparation for Engineered flooring:
* Stapled down installation requires a 5/8 or 3/4 OSB or plywood sub floor
* Make sure sub floor is securely screwed down to prevent squeaks
* Sub floor must be flat and have a max tolerance of 3/16 per 10 foot if necessary
flatten down irregularities and fill any uneven spots with a leveling compound
* Vacuum and make sure there is no debris or obstacles such as nail heads or
dry glue
* Remove the base molding boards.
* Using a handsaw, cut the bottom of the door frames in order to slide a plank
beneath the door.
Glued Down Installation: (direct over concrete)
Make sure sub floor prep is done
Recommended Adhesives:
* Bostik?s Urethane Adhesives (nest, BST or EFA)
* Franklin 811 Advantage
* Sikabond T-54 or T-55
Tools required:
* Tenon-saw, circular saw or handsaw
* Rubber mallet
* Chalk line
* Measuring tape
* Adhesive (Glue)
* Trowel recommended by adhesive manufacture since teeth size is important for
best adherence
* 2 inch concrete nails and a 1? x 3? x 8? laths for first row holding block
* Claw hammer
* 3m adhesive tape or an easily removable equivalent
* 100 to 150 lb roller
* Towels for cleaning
* Square
Glued Down Installation:
* Using the chalk line, draw a line 1/4 inch larger than the width of the
timber board out from your starting wall.
* Select your floor boards select your boards with care, making sure to reject
any flawed pieces.
* Expansion Gap of 1/4 inch should be left around the perimeter of the floor
by the walls and also around radiator pipes.
* The working area between starting wall and starting line will be the last
floor section laid. Measure width of two pieces of flooring back from the wall
minus the width of the 1/4 inch expansion gap and fasten the holding block there.
Make sure this is square as this will be used to secure the starting row in
place.
* For the best adhesive application work the trowel in a circular motion at
45% angle; adhesive left on floor by trowel teeth is all that is needed. (One
gallon covers about 50 ft2, please see container specs)
* Only cover surface that can be reasonably be laid in a 2 hour time period
as adhesive may dry quickly. Please refer to adhesive instructions for exact
reaction times as they may be affected by room temperature and relative humidity.
* It is important that install be started straight and square
* Select boards and lay in working area leaving a 1/4 inch gap along side the
wall perpendicular to starting line. Prop tongue side against the holding block
and press first board down into adhesive
* Install additional boards from left to right until ready to trim first row
end board
* To minimize waste select a board long enough, so that the remaining trim piece
can be used to start the next row. Leave a 1/4 inch gap at end of each row
* To prevent end joint alignment, the first board of the next row must be at
least 6 inches shorter or longer than that of the previous row
* Insert tongue end into the board groove and lower board as close as possible
to adjacent one, slide tongue into groove and press board down.
* Proceed the same way for subsequent rows.
* Row to row install requires that no glue seeps into grooves for perfect tongue
and groove fit
* To keep boards in place and avoid movement during install use the adhesive
tape
* Now use the roller over the laid section before adhesive dries, please use
protective padding on the roller to prevent damage to the surface of the floor.
* Once the main part of the floor has been laid, remove the blocking board used
for the starting row and complete the install in the same manner as above. Be
sure to leave the minimum required expansion gap of 1/4 inch at the wall.
* Please wait 24 hrs before moving furniture back into place after install.
* Set aside a few boards in case of future repairs.
* Replace the moldings.
* Enjoy a Lifetime of Beauty that your new hardwood floor will bring you.
Stapled Down Installation:
Make sure sub floor prep is done
Tools required:
* Tenon-saw, circular saw or handsaw
* Rubber mallet
* Chalk line
* Measuring tape
* Claw hammer
* Square
* Pneumatic stapler
* Power drill and 1/16 bit
* Finishing nails
* Flooring screws
Stapled Down Installation:
* Using the chalk line, draw a line 1/4 inch larger than the width of the
timber board out from your starting wall.
* Select your floor boards select your boards with care, making sure to reject
flawed pieces.
* Expansion Gap of 1/4 inch should be left around the perimeter of the floor
by the walls and also around radiator pipes.
* It is important that install be started straight and square
* Align first board groove side with starting line, tongued side facing work
area leaving a 1/4 inch gap along side the wall perpendicular to starting line.
Drill and nail board vertically as close to the wall as possible to hide nail
heads when base boards and/or qtr rounds are in place.
* Install additional boards from left to right until ready to trim the end board
* To minimize waste select a board long enough, so that the remaining trim piece
can be used to start the next row. Leave a 1/4 inch gap at end of each row
* To prevent end joint alignment, the first board of the next row must be at
least 6 inches shorter or longer than that of the previous row
* Since wall proximity limits use of stapler use finishing nails about every
4 inches alongside the tongue for the first few rows, and punch the nail heads
down
* Additional rows may be installed the same way using the stapler. Staple boards
every 4 to 5 inches, but at more than 2 inches from each board end.
* Because of wall proximity install of the last 4 or 5 rows is identical to
first few rows. You might also have to rip the last row of boards to leave the
required 1/4 inch gap from the wall.
* Set aside a few boards in case of future repairs.
* Nail holes can be filled using a matching wax or wood filler.
* Replace the moldings.
* Enjoy a Lifetime of Beauty that your new hardwood floor will bring you.
Maintaining Your Flooring
Hardwood is a living material that reacts to variations in humidity and wears
naturally over time. If you maintain it properly and take a few simple precautions,
you can keep it looking beautiful for years to come.
Cleaning your Flooring
The Teal Flooring finishing system makes Teal Flooring hardwood floors the
best choice for easy maintenance.
All it takes is a few easy steps to keep your floor looking new.
1. Sweep or vacuum floor to remove any dust or abrasive material.
2. Spray a light coat of cleaner directly over soiled area or on your terrycloth
mop cover.
3. Mop floor in a back-and-forth motion in same direction as strips. Finish
one section before starting another.
Practical Tips
Although your Teal Flooring finish is more resistant to wear than any other
competitive products on the market, it is not indestructible. By following these
easy steps as regular preventive maintenance, you'll be able to enjoy the beauty
of your floor for many years to come.
* Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove dust and any abrasives that may scratch
the finish.
* Quickly wipe spills from floor to protect the wood from water damage.
* Place mats outside and inside entrances to prevent sand and abrasives from
accumulating on your floor. Avoid mats with rubber or other dense backings that
prevent airflow and trap abrasives and moisture.
* Place mats by the sink, dishwasher, and workstations to protect your floor
from kitchen mishaps like dropped cooking utensils or spilled water detergent,
or oils.
* Apply felt pads under all furniture and chair legs to make them easier to
move and prevent scratching. Keep them clean and in good condition.
* Cover or replace any hard, narrow plastic casters with wide rubber or soft
polyurethane casters.
* Protect your floor when moving heavy furniture. Turn a mat upside down and
place a slightly smaller piece of plywood on it. Put the furniture on top and
slide smoothly over the floor.
* Be careful with pointed objects like spike-heeled and sports shoes, especially
if they are worn or damaged.
Note: After water and sand, spike-heeled shoes are your floor's worst enemy.
This applies to hardwood as well as all other floor coverings, including concrete.
* Keep relative humidity in your home at about 45% (between 40% and 50%) for
your health, your floor, and your wood furnishings. Wood is a natural material
that reacts to variations in relative humidity, expanding and contracting as
it absorbs and releases moisture.
* When humidity is high, wood absorbs moisture and expands, which causes cupping.
That's why we recommend controlling humidity carefully with good ventilation,
a dehumidifier, and your heating system.
* When the air is dry, wood releases its humidity and contracts, which causes
gapping between strips. We recommend using a humidifier to minimize contraction
of your wood flooring strips.
* Keep your pets' claws well trimmed to avoid scratches to your floor. Scratches
are less visible on low-gloss finished floors.
* Although the UV protection slows and prevents most of the yellowing in certain
natural wood species, it's still best to protect your floor from the sun's rays
and intense artificial lighting, which can affect the color of your wood. The
yellowing phenomenon is perfectly natural and more apparent in lighter colored
woods.
* Occasionally move carpets and furniture and reduce harsh lighting to minimize
discoloration.
Note: Changes in wood color are not due to yellowing of the finish, but rather
to natural changes in the wood.
Things to avoid:
* Never pour cleaner or any other liquid directly onto your floor.
* Do not use a wet mop that may leave excess water.
* Some manufacturers recommend cleaning floors with a mop rinsed in warm water
and vinegar. This is acceptable if the mop is fully wrung out and nearly dry
before using.
* Never use wax, oil-based detergents, or other household cleaning agents on
your floor, since they may dull or damage the finish and leave a greasy film
that makes floors slippery, maintenance more difficult, and refinishing impossible
without deep sanding and complete revarnishing.
* Do not raise or lower the temperature of your radiant floor heating system
by more than 2.8 ?C (5 ?F) per day when turning the system on or off.
Can I wax my Prefinished floor?
We strongly discourage the use of wax on any prefinished hardwood floors with
our advanced finishing system. Wax may dull or damage the finish and leave a
greasy film that makes floors slippery, maintenance more difficult, and refinishing
impossible without deep sanding and complete revarnishing.
Mishaps
Teal Flooring hardwood floors are easy to maintain. If an
accident happens, these tips will help you preserve the beauty of your floor.
| Problems / Mishaps |
Easy Solutions |
| Food, soft drinks, alcohol, etc. |
Promptly sponge or wipe with damp, well-wrung cloth. Spray with cleaner
to dissolve spot and wipe off. |
| Sticky, stubborn or dark stains |
Spray cleaner on damp cloth and wipe off. For more stubborn stains, use
white vinegar directly on stain, leave for 2 or 3 minutes and scrub vigorously.
Still having trouble? Dampen a cloth with a bit of thinner or lighter fluid
and wipe stain away. |
| Marks from shoes, rubber casters, tar, etc. |
Spray cleaner on a cloth and wipe off. |
| Grease, oil, lipstick, coloring pencil, etc. |
Spray cleaner on a cloth and wipe off. |
| Chewing gum, candle wax, crayon marks, etc. |
Apply a plastic bag filled with ice cubes to surface until soiled area
hardens and crumbles. Spray cleaner on a cloth and wipe off. |
| Ink |
Dampen a cloth with a bit of thinner or lighter fluid and wipe stain
away. |
| Deep scratches, major finish problems |
Replace damaged strip |
| Deep scratches, dents, gouges, bumps, over entire floor |
After many years of use or abuse, floors show normal wear.
Ask your Dealer to sand and refinish your floor if necessary. |
